Ngadi Chuli
Ngadi Chuli (also known as Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, or
Dunapurna) is a high peak in the Mansiri Himal (or Manaslu Himal), also known
as the Gurkha Massif, in Nepal. It is flanked by Manaslu to the north and
Himalchuli to the south.
Despite its top 20 height, Ngadi Chuli has only been climbed
once or twice. The probable first ascent occurred in 1970. Hiroshi Watanabe and
Sherpa Lhaksa Tsering, members of a Japanese expedition, climbed the east ridge
and face. They left their camp V, at about 7500 metres, for a summit attack.
Very near the top they were out of sight for about two hours. After
reappearing, they suffered a fatal fall down an ice wall. A later Japanese
expedition recovered their bodies, but all film had been exposed and no
conclusive evidence could be found that they had reached the summit. In order
to achieve a confirmed ascent of the mountain, the Japanese organized three
more expeditions, but these all failed.
The first confirmed ascent, and as of 2005 the last attempt
on the mountain, was in 1979 by the Polish climbers Ryszard Gajewski and Maciej
Pawlikowski via the West buttress.
Elevation (feet):25823
(meters):7871
Range: Himalaya
Sub Range: Central Nepal Himalaya
Country: Nepal
Continent: Asia
Latitude:28.5033
Longitude:84.5675
Best months for
climbing: April, May
First climbed:1970
Convenient Center: Pokhara,
Nepal
Nearest major
airport: Kathmandu, Nepal
Timeline
1961 First reconnaissance by Japanese climbers.
1969 Third Japanese attempt reached 7350 m.
1970 Probable first ascent, via the east ridge and face.
1978 Three climbers die in an avalanche during the seventh
Japanese attempt.
1979 First confirmed ascent, by a Polish expedition.
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