Mustang Region
The Central Nepal region consists of
the Mustang area, Jomsom, Muktinath, and the Manang Valley. This region was not
opened to foreigners till 1977. The area had in fact been used by the Khampa
rebels as a base in their attempts to free Tibet from Chinese occupation.
A well-known rebel,
Wangdi, had established his base camp about 6 to 7 km from Jomsom as it was the
closest point to Lhasa and had a climate and terrain similar to that of the
Tibetan plateau. He enjoyed a lot of sympathy among the locals, till the
Nepalese government, bowing to Chinese demands, sent its army into the area,
annihilated the base and killed him. Since then, the army had maintained a
permanent presence in the area and had been conducting regular courses in
mountaineering and rock climbing for its personnel.
The Nepalese in this
region are however generally in favor of a gradual transition to a democratic
system and are making efforts to bring themselves closer to the King.
Mustang
Region
Mustang is the name given to the arid region at the northern end of the Kali
Gandaki. Locally, Mustang is known as Lo and it is believed that the word
Mustang (pronounced moo-stang) is a mispronunciation of the capital of Lo --
Manthang. Officially, the district of Mustang extends along the Kali Gandaki
from the Tibetan border in the north to Ghasa further south. The capital of the
Mustang District is Jomsom. North of Kagbeni is a region of Tibetan influence
called Upper Mustang. Upper Mustang consists of two distinct regions. The
southern region, with five villages, is inhabited by people related to the
Manangis - - the inhabitants of the Manang Valley. The northern region is the
location of the ancient kingdom of Lo, where the language, culture and
traditions are almost purely Tibetan. The capital of Lo is Manthang, which, in
Tibetan, means "plain of aspiration".
The Mustang Bhote region
boasts a famous pilgrimage center: Muktinath. The climate and landscape here
are similar to those of the Tibetan Plateau since it is situated in the rain
shadow of the Greater Himalayas. Flowing through the region from north to south
and forming deep gorges is the Kali Gandaki river, which as its name implies
(kali = black) is a black river --the black stones of the riverbed and black
soil contributing to the effect.
Scattered in the region
are villages like Jhang, Jharkot, Kagbeni and Khingar, which cluster around the
streams that make cultivation possible. These green patches are the only oases
in this otherwise desolate "desert". In Kagbeni,
"saligrams" are common. They are small, round, fossilized stones,
which are easily recognizable by the presence of a conical eye on the surface.
When broken, they are generally found to contain fossils. They are considered
to be "blessed" by the cosmic power responsible for the universe as
we know it. More importantly, they are proof that the Himalayas at one time
were under a deep sea.
Most of the people are
Buddhists. They are a versatile and aggressive lot but very hospitable to their
guests. They neither bury nor cremate their dead. Instead, amidst the chanting
of mantras, the lamas cut the bodies into pieces and spread them out for the
vultures. They owe allegiance to a local "King", who collects revenues
from them and submits these to the King of Nepal. For his efforts, this man has
been given the rank of colonel in the Nepalese army. The people trade regularly
with Tibet, bartering yak butter, ghee and salt for rice, clothes and other
consumer durables.
Jomsom
Jomsom is more correctly known as Dzongsam or New Fort. It spreads over both
the banks of the Kali Gandaki. The towering peaks of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri
form an attractive backdrop. Being the district headquarters, it is primarily
an administrative and commercial center with government officials and merchants
rubbing shoulders with the local inhabitants of the region, known as the
Thakalis. It has a wireless station, a police station, a bank, a hospital and a
veterinary hospital. A company of the Nepalese Army is stationed here. Nearby
is an airfield, from where flights operate regularly. However, due to the
strong winds that buffet the area in the afternoons, the airfield is functional
only in the forenoon.
The Thakalis living in
the Jomsom region and in the nearby villages of Marpha and Tukuche have been
known for their trading skills. They occupy an important village on the
traditional trade route between the Gangetic plains of India and Tibet.
The views from Jomsom
are enchanting as the golden rays of the rising and setting sun are reflected
by the Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri ranges. The entire panorama is filled with a
golden, glittering light which forms a dramatic contrast with the barren, black
and dry mountains of the surrounding Kali Gandaki valley.
Thakalis
The Thakalis living in the Jomsom region (Central Nepal) and in the nearby
villages of Marpha and Tukuche have been known for their trading skills. They
occupy an important village on the traditional trade route between the Gangetic
plains of India and Tibet.
To help their fellow
men, the Thakali people have organized a system called "Thigur", in
which groups of 20 to 30 people pool certain amounts of money according to
their individual capacity. This money is then given to any member of the group
who is in dire need of money for starting a business. The loan is repayable in
easy installments. Such a sense of trust in their fellow members is indeed
commendable.
Many of the Thakalis
have migrated to cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara, but due to the influx of tourists,
quite a few return during the summer to run restaurants and hotels.
The Thakalis follow a
mixture of Buddhism and Hinduism, with the latter holding sway. They have a
rather "interesting" marriage custom. The bridegroom abducts a girl
of his choice, takes her to his house and has to get her to agree to marry him.
If she accedes to his proposal within three days their parents work out the
remaining formalities. Otherwise, the girl returns home and the process is
repeated with someone else. There is no taboo on marrying cousins.
Muktinath
Muktinath, situated at a height of 3,660 m, is an important pilgrimage center
for both Hindus and Buddhists. The most prominent shrine is a Vishnu temple
where 108 spouts, fashioned in the shape of cows' heads, pour forth water that
is considered to be holy. This water is channeled from a stream running above
the temple. The temple is built in Tibetan style and contains huge brass idols
of Vishnu, Shiva, Brahma, and Kali.
Nearby is another temple
where water gushes out of a rock and this water is considered even more holy.
There is also a Buddhist gompa (monastery), and a pagoda-type temple dedicated
to Jwala Mayi (goddess of fire). In this temple, shielded by curtains, are the
outlets for the natural gas that oozes from the rock and feeds the temple
flame.
There is also a spring
close by. These three elements together are considered to be an auspicious
convergence of earth, fire and water.
There are two temples of
note, a dilapidated temple with the idols of Lord Shiva and his consort
Parvati, and a Narsingh temple where rituals are performed according to both
Hindu and Buddhist customs. Here the two religions coexist together and in the
two-storey structure, the lower storey is the gompa while the upper storey is
the temple.
Muktinath and its high
valley are located in the Mustang Bhote region. The climate and landscape here
are similar to those of the Tibetan Plateau since it is situated in the rain
shadow of the Greater Himalayas. Flowing through the region from north to south
and forming deep gorges is the Kali Gandaki river, which as its name implies
(kali = black) is a black river -- the black stones of the riverbed and black
soil contributing to the effect.
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