Pharchamo Peak Expedition - 6187m - 15 Days
The peak, which lies due south of the Tashi-Labtsa, seen
from the pass the mountain is an attractive but straight forward snow peak with
a well-defined north by northwest ridge rising from the relatively flat,
crevassed glacier astride the Tashi-Labtsa.
To the west of the ridge the face forms a uniform snow slope
broken by crevasses and small seracs rising from the rocky lower buttresses
above the Drolambu Glacier. From a high camp on or near the Tashi-Labtsa cross
wide, crevassed snow slopes to gain the obvious snow ramp the ridge is followed
with little difficulty, in some conditions crevasses might give problems
towards the summit. Many groups have found it difficult the ice step caused by
a large undercut crevasses about 300 meters from the summit.
The face above the Drolambu glacier is very attractive and
obviously has a great deal of potential.
The Khumbu (east) face of the Parchemo is approachable, the
technical climb applies as it is protected by a rock walls low down, and with a
fluted by icy headwall protected by a band of seracs.
Outline Itinerary
ay 01 Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel and welcome
dinner in the evening
Day 02 Sightseeing in Kathmandu city and prepare for the
trip
Day 03 Four hours bus ride to Barabise (1,200m) few hours
walk to camp
Day 04 Trek to Dolangsa and camp. (2,489m) 5 hours
Day 05 Trek up-hill and camp at Tinsang-la. (3,319m) 4
hours
Day 06 Trek to Bigu Gompa and camp. (2,519m) 5-6 hours
Day 07 Bigu Gompa to Chilangka. (1,923m) 6 hours
Day 08 Chilangka to Bulung (2,100m) 6 hours
Day 09 Bulung to Gongar (1,400m) 5 hours
Day 10 Gongar to Simigaon (2,000m) 3-4 hours
Day 11 Simigaon to Dovan (2,500m) 6 hours
Day 12 Dovan to Beding (3,693m) 5 hours
Day 13 Rest day for acclimatization and a short hike around
Day 14 Beding to Nah (4,183m) 4 hours
Day 15 Nah to Tsho-rolpa or Cho Pokhari (4,500m) 4
hours
Day 16 Tsho Rolpo to Drolambau Glacier Camp. (5,400m) 5
hours
Day 17 Climb to Tashi Lapcha, camp on the pass. (5,755m) 4-5
hours
Day 18 Trek & climb to the high camp at the base of
Parchemo for the next day climb
Day 19 Climbing of Parchemo
Day 20 Climbing Day for Parchemo
Day 21 Tashi Lapcha to Thengpo. (4,300m) 5 hours
Day 22 Thengpo to Namche Bazaar (3,450m) 4 - 5 hours
Day 23 Namche Bazaar to Phakding. (2,640m) 5 hours
Day 24 Phakding to Lukla (2,826m) 3 hours
Day 25 A panoramic 45 minutes flight from Lukla to Katmandu
Day 26 Sightseeing in ancient city of Bhaktapur, shopping
and Cultural program show
Day 27 Depart. From hotel and transfer to Airport
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